Brake Fluid: Check the brake fluid when you check all the other fluids. It's easy to do and only takes a minute.

1. Find the brake master cylinder. This is usually located under the hood on the driver's side of the car, toward the back of the engine compartment. Imagine where your brake pedal would end up if it went all the way through to the engine. The brake master cylinder is a small (about 6 by 2 inches), rectangular piece of metal with a plastic reservoir and a rubber cap on top, with small metal tubes leading from it.
2. Check your owner's manual if you aren't sure that you've found the master cylinder. The rubber cap will usually read "Use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid from a sealed container."
3. Note that on most newer-model cars the reservoir is translucent and you can see the fluid level without removing the cap. There will be a "Full" line - the brake fluid should be at this line.
4. In older cars (pre-1980), the brake master cylinder reservoir may be made entirely of metal so you must take the top off to check the fluid level. The top is held on by a metal clamp - use a screwdriver to pop off the clamp and lift the lid.
5. Add brake fluid to the "Full" line. If the reservoir has two parts, fill both halves. Use the correct brake fluid for your Audi. Check the rubber cap and your owner's manual to find out what grade of brake fluid your car requires. Most cars use DOT (Department of Transportation) 3 or 4.

Brake fluid is very toxic. Keep it away from hands and eyes and avoid spilling it on the ground. Dispose of empty containers carefully and be especially careful not to spill brake fluid on your car's paint. Always wash your hands well after handling brake fluid.

If the brake master cylinder is empty, the brake pedal will go to the floor. If this is the case, you will have to bleed the brakes in addition to adding fluid. It's probably best to see your Audi mechanic, who will be able to flush and refill the braking system. Never drive a car that has run out of brake fluid until bleeding the brakes!

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The days of the full-service gas station are gone, and modern cars can go 30,000 miles or more without a tune-up. So it's up to YOU to check the little things before they become big, expensive problems by checking under the hood of your Audi on a regular basis.

Following these simple monthly checks will alert you to potential problems that can be dealt with before you get stranded or end up paying for expensive auto repairs.

First a word of caution on fluids - particularly for import cars. Car manufacturer's are required to specify in their owner's manuals all the fluids to be used in your Audi and the manufacturer's OE specifications for each. Make sure to check here first - BEFORE adding any fluids to your Audi. It is also required that OE oils and coolants must be mixable with "off the shelf" products to allow for emergency service. It may not be the best thing for your engine long-term, but you can add plain old 30W oil to $5 a quart synthetics and the same goes for coolants and water. On the other hand, however, are the hydraulic oils (i.e., power steering, brake fluid, transmission fluid, differential/axle, etc.). These must be at certain specifications for viscosity and liquid type (petroleum vs. mineral vs. synthetic). Hence, it's critical that you know what products to be adding to your Audi according to the specifications given in your owner's manual.

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Tip #1: Whether a fuel pump is mounted inside a fuel tank or externally, the inside of the tank should always be inspected and cleaned if rust or debris is found in the pump or filter. Replacing a pump without cleaning a dirty tank will doom the new pump to premature failure.

Tip #2:If you're replacing an in-tank fuel pump, always disconnect the battery to prevent any unwanted sparks. Then drain the tank before removing the tank straps and opening the pump's retaining collar. Keep all flames and sparks away!

Tip #3: When installing the new fuel pump, always replace the filter screen and use a new O-ring or gasket for the sealing collar.

Tip #4:Do not "test" a new pump before it has been installed by jumping it. Running a pump in a dry condition with no fuel to lubricate it risks damaging it. Do not run the pump until fuel has been added to the tank. Also, replace any braided or rubber fuel lines that are flaking or cracked with the correct type of EFI hose.

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Don't Take Chances With Your Brakes - Repair Them Now!

Your brakes keep your family safe.

Brake rotors for import cars, unlike domestics, are built with minimal thicknesses to save weight - meaning they can't be "turned"; they must be replaced.

Brake rotors for imports are also more sensitive to warping from heat, and overheated brakes are the second most common cause of failure.

Use Your Eyes & Ears to Inspect Your Volkswagen's Brakes

Visually inspect your brakes' condition at least every six months.

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On the Quattro version of the A4, the gas tank is not flat. It is shaped and mounted in the A4 like an upside down U. This allows room for the drive shaft to meet the rear differential. The fuel pump is only on one side of the tank. So, how does the fuel get from one side of the tank to the side that has the fuel pump?

According to Shumburg Audi, there is an injector that picks up the fuel and sends it over to the other side of the tank (where the fuel pump is).

Shumburg stated that the injector (not to be confused with a pump according to Shumburg) is probable making this sound and if the car starts and runs fine, do not worry about it.

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Constant brake noise is never a good sound and any grinding noise spells real trouble!

Most importantly: As soon as any problem is noticed, get it repaired immediately. Delaying brake repairs is extremely dangerous.

Overstressed rotors and drums can break. Brakes may be too worn or damaged to stop your Audi in an emergency.

Even if you manage to avoid physical harm, the longer you delay fixing brake problems, the more you increase the cost of doing so.

Badly worn, warped or overheated rotors can damage wheel bearings and the complete wheel hub assembly. These parts often cost as much or more than the brakes themselves.

Even if you like doing your own work, every few years your Audi brakes should be examined by an Audi professional. Checking brakes for "run-out", warping, wheel bearing play, proper proportioning balance, among others, are normally more involved than can be accomplished in your garage. This inspection can also uncover underlying problems that could eventually become costly or dangerous.

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Audi Additional Troubleshooting: When inspecting brakes, check calipers, wheel cylinders, hoses and fittings for any hydraulic fluid leakage.

Inspect the master cylinder, reservoir and proportioning valve assemblies as well. Replace or rebuild as required.

A "spongy" brake pedal or one that's gotten lower underfoot also needs looking into. It could be caused by sticking calipers, worn pads, low fluid or hydraulic system problems.

If you can't "pump them up", then you definitely have hydraulic problems that need work. If you always have to pump them up, at the very least your hydraulic fluid needs replacement.

To check brakes by sound, know how your brakes should sound and listen for out-of-the-ordinary noises.

Most cars have a slight brushing sound from the pads lightly touching the rotors. This is perfectly normal. Sounds to beware of include:

Squeaking may be caused by dust or dirt on the brakes, loose pads vibrating when applied or worn pads.

Rhythmic noise might mean you have a warped rotor. Instead of a solid squeaking noise, it pulsates. In extreme cases, the brake pedal will also pulsate underfoot.

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Audi Brake Rotors (discs) should be inspected all the way around the surface and on both sides for any concentric scoring (grooves) or obvious defects. If defects are found, replace your rotors immediately. Any rotor discoloration may be a sign of overheating and an inspection by an Audi brake repair professional is needed.

Audi Brake Pads will normally match rotor scoring but should also be inspected for uneven wear, breakage or cracking on the friction surface. Again, if defects are found, replace the pads immediately. Many cars also have brake pad sensors to warn of pad wear. If your Audi uses sensors, replace these at the same time as your pads.

Audi Brake Drums (if equipped) should also be inspected on a regular basis. Check for the same types of flaws as noted above. The drums should not have excessive grooves or have a deep "trough" dug into them where the shoes ride.

Audi Brake Shoes (if equipped) should be worn evenly and have no rivets protruding to the friction surface.

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From three to twelve cylinders, petrol or diesel: the Audi engines are high-performance machines designed for power, reliability, a long service life and economical operation. These characteristics are retained for a particularly long time if certain tips are observed when running in the car.

The running-in phase is completed after approximately 20 hours. Assuming an average driving style, this is equivalent to a distance of 1,000 to 1,500 kilometres. It is relatively easy to run in a new engine correctly over the first few kilometres if you observe the following:

* When cold-starting the engine, always run the engine warm gently. This will help considerably to make the engine last a long time.

* Vary the engine load when driving on the motorway for the first time: change the load condition and only run the engine at very low or very high revs for short periods. The accelerator pedal should only be pressed right down in emergency situations.

* Only use high-grade branded oil of the quality specified in the owner’s manual. If you have to top up with oil, this should have the same viscosity as the original oil.

* In general, all branded oils from known oil companies meet Audi’s demands and can be mixed with each other.

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By being more aware of the way they drive, every individual can do their bit to conserve resources and protect the environment. The general equation is quite simple: the less fuel consumed, the fewer emissions produced. But driving with greater awareness not only helps the environment, but is also easy on the purse strings. With this is mind, Audi has devised a short environmental guide which is designed to make it easier for every driver to drive in a way that is both ecologically and economically sound.

• Avoid running the engine warm when idling.
• Rapid acceleration and changing up early has a positive effect on energy consumption.
• Release the accelerator as soon as possible if the flow of traffic requires you to slow down.
• Reduce rolling resistance by checking tyre pressure regularly.
• Improve aerodynamics, for example by removing roof racks not in use.
• Be careful to keep your revs down in city traffic.
• Avoid carrying unnecessary weight in the car in city traffic.
• Switch off the power consumers in your car as soon as you have stopped using them.
• An on-board computer is very useful for monitoring how economically you are driving.

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Bring your car to an alignment shop for a front-end or four-wheel alignment if your tires are worn on one side or the other. And don't forget to get a front-end or four-wheel alignment if you are in an accident, even if it was just a fender bender. If anything is out of alignment, it will affect your tires' wear.

If you feel a shimmy or wobble in the steering wheel or in the rear of the car with no evident tire wear, chances are the steel radial belt may be separating. Have the suspect tire checked by qualified professionals. A shimmy or wobble could also indicate tires that need to be balanced. Scalloped edges can indicate the same thing.

Check the tire pressure in all four tires and the spare tire at least once a month. The recommended tire pressure is listed in your car's manual, stamped on the side of the tire and is often printed on a sticker on the driver's-side doorjamb. When in doubt, 32 psi (pounds per square inch) is a good average until other sources can be consulted.

Remember that under normal driving conditions, all four tires should wear evenly.

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Let some air out of your tires if there is wear down the middle and not on the sides - there's too much air in them. Add air to tires with wear on both the inside and outside edges - there's not enough air in them. Run your hand lightly over the tread surface of each tire. If the treads feel bumpy or scalloped, even if the tread is still deep, you may need new shock absorbers or struts.

You should always carry a tire pressure gauge in your car. The outside temperature can alter the air pressure in your tires and allow them to wear out prematurely. Think preventive maintenance and it could save you money in the long run.

Tires never wear evenly, even if the car is properly aligned. Rotate tires at least every 6000 miles to spread the wear on all four tires.

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Driving on tires that are bald or badly worn greatly increases your chance of getting a flat or a blowout and is especially dangerous when the roads are wet or slick. Don't put off buying new tires when you need them - your safety is at stake!

On average, tires need to be replaced every 40,000 miles but the exact mileage depends on the type of tire and car and what kind of driving you do.

Tire wear can also tell you what's going on with your car's steering, suspension and tire pressure. Here are some tips on checking and interpreting tire wear:

Check your tires outdoors where the lighting is good. Visually inspect all four tires. Check for even tread wear by using a tread-depth gauge (about $20). The depth of the tread (the grooves in the tires) should be even on all parts of the tire. Another way to check for tire wear (although not as accurate) is to stick a penny into the grooves, with Lincoln's head pointing into the tire. If you can see the top of his head, it's time to buy new tires.

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Replace coolant at or before factory recommended intervals with the proper type, mixture and volume of coolant. Always allow the coolant system to rid itself of air before installing the radiator cap.

Replace the thermostat with the original temperature setting equivalent. The electronics in your vehicle may use that setting for other controls. Do not substitute under any circumstances.

Adjust or replace the water pump drive belt (external) at recommended intervals or more frequently, if required. Check belts whenever you're working on any coolant system components.

Replace the fan clutch and/or fan blade as needed (if applicable). Your Volkswagen's temperature gauge is often your best guide as to when your fan clutch needs attention.

Keep your entire vehicle properly maintained because of the effect timing, idle speed, exhaust and other systems have on your engine's temperature. Your Volkswagen's cooling system is designed to function with all other systems operating properly. It cannot make up for a poorly operating or overheating engine condition.

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Keep your engine and engine compartment, as well as your radiator fins and grill, as clean as possible. A clean engine runs much cooler - and it's much easier to work on.

Replace all cooling system hoses - upper and lower radiator hoses, bypass hoses, heater hoses, manifold coolant hoses and any other hoses on your vehicle - whenever you even suspect there may be a problem.

Replace the radiator/expansion tank cap with the original pressure setting and OE-type equivalent. Some aftermarket substitutions do not seal and hold pressure properly on foreign-manufactured cars. Again, don't substitute.

Replace your water pump with an OEM/OES pump at the first signs of trouble or when your timing belt and tensioner are replaced.

Replace temperature sensors as required by diagnosis. Leave troubleshooting of your sensors to Volkswagen experts who have the proper equipment and diagrams.

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From now on Branko Spirovski will write posts in this blog.

I hope you will find lots of interesting stuff learn something new and have enjoyable time here.

Best Regards,

Branko