Brake Fluid: Check the brake fluid when you check all the other fluids. It's easy to do and only takes a minute.

1. Find the brake master cylinder. This is usually located under the hood on the driver's side of the car, toward the back of the engine compartment. Imagine where your brake pedal would end up if it went all the way through to the engine. The brake master cylinder is a small (about 6 by 2 inches), rectangular piece of metal with a plastic reservoir and a rubber cap on top, with small metal tubes leading from it.
2. Check your owner's manual if you aren't sure that you've found the master cylinder. The rubber cap will usually read "Use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid from a sealed container."
3. Note that on most newer-model cars the reservoir is translucent and you can see the fluid level without removing the cap. There will be a "Full" line - the brake fluid should be at this line.
4. In older cars (pre-1980), the brake master cylinder reservoir may be made entirely of metal so you must take the top off to check the fluid level. The top is held on by a metal clamp - use a screwdriver to pop off the clamp and lift the lid.
5. Add brake fluid to the "Full" line. If the reservoir has two parts, fill both halves. Use the correct brake fluid for your Audi. Check the rubber cap and your owner's manual to find out what grade of brake fluid your car requires. Most cars use DOT (Department of Transportation) 3 or 4.

Brake fluid is very toxic. Keep it away from hands and eyes and avoid spilling it on the ground. Dispose of empty containers carefully and be especially careful not to spill brake fluid on your car's paint. Always wash your hands well after handling brake fluid.

If the brake master cylinder is empty, the brake pedal will go to the floor. If this is the case, you will have to bleed the brakes in addition to adding fluid. It's probably best to see your Audi mechanic, who will be able to flush and refill the braking system. Never drive a car that has run out of brake fluid until bleeding the brakes!

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The days of the full-service gas station are gone, and modern cars can go 30,000 miles or more without a tune-up. So it's up to YOU to check the little things before they become big, expensive problems by checking under the hood of your Audi on a regular basis.

Following these simple monthly checks will alert you to potential problems that can be dealt with before you get stranded or end up paying for expensive auto repairs.

First a word of caution on fluids - particularly for import cars. Car manufacturer's are required to specify in their owner's manuals all the fluids to be used in your Audi and the manufacturer's OE specifications for each. Make sure to check here first - BEFORE adding any fluids to your Audi. It is also required that OE oils and coolants must be mixable with "off the shelf" products to allow for emergency service. It may not be the best thing for your engine long-term, but you can add plain old 30W oil to $5 a quart synthetics and the same goes for coolants and water. On the other hand, however, are the hydraulic oils (i.e., power steering, brake fluid, transmission fluid, differential/axle, etc.). These must be at certain specifications for viscosity and liquid type (petroleum vs. mineral vs. synthetic). Hence, it's critical that you know what products to be adding to your Audi according to the specifications given in your owner's manual.

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Don't Take Chances With Your Brakes - Repair Them Now!

Your brakes keep your family safe.

Brake rotors for import cars, unlike domestics, are built with minimal thicknesses to save weight - meaning they can't be "turned"; they must be replaced.

Brake rotors for imports are also more sensitive to warping from heat, and overheated brakes are the second most common cause of failure.

Use Your Eyes & Ears to Inspect Your Volkswagen's Brakes

Visually inspect your brakes' condition at least every six months.

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Constant brake noise is never a good sound and any grinding noise spells real trouble!

Most importantly: As soon as any problem is noticed, get it repaired immediately. Delaying brake repairs is extremely dangerous.

Overstressed rotors and drums can break. Brakes may be too worn or damaged to stop your Audi in an emergency.

Even if you manage to avoid physical harm, the longer you delay fixing brake problems, the more you increase the cost of doing so.

Badly worn, warped or overheated rotors can damage wheel bearings and the complete wheel hub assembly. These parts often cost as much or more than the brakes themselves.

Even if you like doing your own work, every few years your Audi brakes should be examined by an Audi professional. Checking brakes for "run-out", warping, wheel bearing play, proper proportioning balance, among others, are normally more involved than can be accomplished in your garage. This inspection can also uncover underlying problems that could eventually become costly or dangerous.

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Audi Additional Troubleshooting: When inspecting brakes, check calipers, wheel cylinders, hoses and fittings for any hydraulic fluid leakage.

Inspect the master cylinder, reservoir and proportioning valve assemblies as well. Replace or rebuild as required.

A "spongy" brake pedal or one that's gotten lower underfoot also needs looking into. It could be caused by sticking calipers, worn pads, low fluid or hydraulic system problems.

If you can't "pump them up", then you definitely have hydraulic problems that need work. If you always have to pump them up, at the very least your hydraulic fluid needs replacement.

To check brakes by sound, know how your brakes should sound and listen for out-of-the-ordinary noises.

Most cars have a slight brushing sound from the pads lightly touching the rotors. This is perfectly normal. Sounds to beware of include:

Squeaking may be caused by dust or dirt on the brakes, loose pads vibrating when applied or worn pads.

Rhythmic noise might mean you have a warped rotor. Instead of a solid squeaking noise, it pulsates. In extreme cases, the brake pedal will also pulsate underfoot.

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From three to twelve cylinders, petrol or diesel: the Audi engines are high-performance machines designed for power, reliability, a long service life and economical operation. These characteristics are retained for a particularly long time if certain tips are observed when running in the car.

The running-in phase is completed after approximately 20 hours. Assuming an average driving style, this is equivalent to a distance of 1,000 to 1,500 kilometres. It is relatively easy to run in a new engine correctly over the first few kilometres if you observe the following:

* When cold-starting the engine, always run the engine warm gently. This will help considerably to make the engine last a long time.

* Vary the engine load when driving on the motorway for the first time: change the load condition and only run the engine at very low or very high revs for short periods. The accelerator pedal should only be pressed right down in emergency situations.

* Only use high-grade branded oil of the quality specified in the owner’s manual. If you have to top up with oil, this should have the same viscosity as the original oil.

* In general, all branded oils from known oil companies meet Audi’s demands and can be mixed with each other.

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Bring your car to an alignment shop for a front-end or four-wheel alignment if your tires are worn on one side or the other. And don't forget to get a front-end or four-wheel alignment if you are in an accident, even if it was just a fender bender. If anything is out of alignment, it will affect your tires' wear.

If you feel a shimmy or wobble in the steering wheel or in the rear of the car with no evident tire wear, chances are the steel radial belt may be separating. Have the suspect tire checked by qualified professionals. A shimmy or wobble could also indicate tires that need to be balanced. Scalloped edges can indicate the same thing.

Check the tire pressure in all four tires and the spare tire at least once a month. The recommended tire pressure is listed in your car's manual, stamped on the side of the tire and is often printed on a sticker on the driver's-side doorjamb. When in doubt, 32 psi (pounds per square inch) is a good average until other sources can be consulted.

Remember that under normal driving conditions, all four tires should wear evenly.

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Driving on tires that are bald or badly worn greatly increases your chance of getting a flat or a blowout and is especially dangerous when the roads are wet or slick. Don't put off buying new tires when you need them - your safety is at stake!

On average, tires need to be replaced every 40,000 miles but the exact mileage depends on the type of tire and car and what kind of driving you do.

Tire wear can also tell you what's going on with your car's steering, suspension and tire pressure. Here are some tips on checking and interpreting tire wear:

Check your tires outdoors where the lighting is good. Visually inspect all four tires. Check for even tread wear by using a tread-depth gauge (about $20). The depth of the tread (the grooves in the tires) should be even on all parts of the tire. Another way to check for tire wear (although not as accurate) is to stick a penny into the grooves, with Lincoln's head pointing into the tire. If you can see the top of his head, it's time to buy new tires.

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Replace coolant at or before factory recommended intervals with the proper type, mixture and volume of coolant. Always allow the coolant system to rid itself of air before installing the radiator cap.

Replace the thermostat with the original temperature setting equivalent. The electronics in your vehicle may use that setting for other controls. Do not substitute under any circumstances.

Adjust or replace the water pump drive belt (external) at recommended intervals or more frequently, if required. Check belts whenever you're working on any coolant system components.

Replace the fan clutch and/or fan blade as needed (if applicable). Your Volkswagen's temperature gauge is often your best guide as to when your fan clutch needs attention.

Keep your entire vehicle properly maintained because of the effect timing, idle speed, exhaust and other systems have on your engine's temperature. Your Volkswagen's cooling system is designed to function with all other systems operating properly. It cannot make up for a poorly operating or overheating engine condition.

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